The UK has some excellent Christmas markets, but the originals are across the Channel. In Germany, Austria and Alsace the Christmas market is centuries old, built into the life of the town rather than bolted onto a shopping street, and the best of them are a short flight or a train ride from home. This guide covers the markets genuinely worth travelling for, when they usually run, and how to pick the right one for the trip you want.
How the season works
European Christmas markets follow Advent rather than a fixed date. The first Sunday of Advent always falls between 27 November and 3 December, and most traditional markets open in the days just before it, so the exact opening date shifts a little each year. A handful of big city markets start much earlier, in mid-November, and a few keep going into the new year.
One date catches British visitors out. Germany marks Totensonntag, a day of remembrance, on the Sunday before Advent. Markets that have already opened often close for the day, so do not plan a day trip around it.
When the main markets usually run
| Market | Usual season |
|---|---|
| Vienna, Rathausplatz | Mid-November to 26 December |
| Budapest, St Stephen's Basilica | Mid-November to New Year's Day |
| Cologne, Cathedral market | Mid to late November to 23 December |
| Colmar | Late November to just before New Year |
| Dresden, Striezelmarkt | Late November to Christmas Eve |
| Nuremberg, Christkindlesmarkt | The Friday before Advent to Christmas Eve |
| Strasbourg | Late November to Christmas Eve |
| Prague, Old Town Square | Late November to 6 January |
| Zagreb, Advent in Zagreb | Late November to early January |
Exact dates are announced by each market every year, usually between late summer and October. Always check the official website before you book flights or hotels, as opening times on 24 and 31 December in particular vary.
The best European Christmas markets
Nuremberg, Germany
The most famous Christmas market in the world, and for many people the benchmark. It fills the main market square in the old town, and it is unusually strict about what can be sold, so the stalls lean heavily towards handmade decorations, gingerbread and local food rather than mass-produced gifts. It opens with a ceremony on the Friday before Advent, in which the Nuremberg Christkind, a young woman chosen by the city each year, delivers a prologue from the church balcony above the square. Eat the small Nuremberg bratwurst, three to a roll. The downside of fame is crowds: avoid December Saturdays if you can.
Vienna, Austria
Vienna is the best choice if you want more than one market from a single base. The main market sits in front of the illuminated City Hall, with an ice rink winding through the park beside it, and there are several smaller, quite different markets within a short tram ride, including Spittelberg, Karlsplatz and the palace markets at Schonbrunn and Belvedere. The Rathausplatz market opens early, in mid-November, which makes Vienna one of the best options for a cheaper mid-November trip.
Strasbourg and Colmar, France
Alsace sits on the French and German border and does Christmas with real conviction. Strasbourg calls itself the Capital of Christmas and has one of the oldest markets in France, spread across a whole series of squares around the cathedral. Colmar, around half an hour south by train, is smaller and arguably prettier, with half-timbered streets and canals and six separate markets that stay open until just before New Year.
The region rewards a few days rather than a single visit. Villages including Riquewihr, Eguisheim and Kaysersberg run their own markets, some only on weekends, and the Colmar tourist office runs seasonal shuttle buses between them. Colmar is very busy on December weekends, so a midweek stay is worth paying for.
Cologne, Germany
Cologne is the easiest serious German market to reach from the UK, as it is possible by train via Brussels in a day. The main market sits right under the cathedral, a few minutes from the station, and the city runs several more markets within walking distance, each with its own theme. It opens in mid to late November and closes on 23 December, so it suits an early or mid-season trip rather than the week before Christmas.
Dresden, Germany
The Striezelmarkt is widely regarded as Germany's oldest Christmas market, dating back to the fifteenth century. It is the place for traditional wooden crafts from the nearby Ore Mountains, including the carved Christmas pyramids, and for Dresden Stollen, the fruit bread the market is named after. Note that it closes early on Christmas Eve and does not reopen.
Prague, Czech Republic
Prague's Old Town Square market is one of the most photogenic in Europe, with a huge Christmas tree set against the Gothic towers of the Tyn Church and the astronomical clock nearby. It runs until 6 January, Epiphany, so it is a strong choice for a trip between Christmas and New Year. Wenceslas Square hosts the second large market, and the smaller neighbourhood markets, such as the one at Namesti Miru, are cheaper and more local.
Zagreb, Croatia
Advent in Zagreb has won a public vote for Europe's best Christmas market several times, and it is less a single market than a whole city given over to the season, with dozens of locations across parks, squares and courtyards, plus an ice rink and a busy programme of free concerts. It is noticeably cheaper than the German and Austrian markets, and it runs into early January, among the latest finishes on this list.
Budapest, Hungary
Budapest has two big markets: the one in front of St Stephen's Basilica, which has a light show projected onto the church and an ice rink, and a long-established market on Vorosmarty Square. Hungary uses the forint rather than the euro, food and drink are good value, and the Basilica market runs right through to New Year's Day.
Tallinn, Estonia
For something different, Tallinn's market sits in the medieval Town Hall Square of one of the best-preserved old towns in northern Europe. It is smaller than the headline German markets, but there is a decent chance of snow, and the cold and the candlelit old town make it feel properly wintry in a way the Rhine markets rarely do.
Brussels and Copenhagen
Brussels runs a large winter festival with stalls spread through the centre, a Ferris wheel and an evening light show on the Grand-Place. It is not the most traditional market on this list, but it is around two hours from London by Eurostar, which makes it the simplest Christmas market break there is. In Copenhagen, the Tivoli Gardens transform for Christmas with lights, stalls and fairground rides. Unlike most markets, Tivoli charges for entry.
Which market suits which trip
- By train from the UK. Brussels is the easiest. Cologne is a comfortable day's journey via Brussels. Lille, just over an hour from London, has its own smaller market.
- On a budget. Zagreb, Budapest and Prague are all considerably cheaper for food, drink and hotels than Germany, Austria or Switzerland.
- After Christmas Day. Most German markets close on 23 or 24 December. Vienna runs to 26 December, Colmar almost to New Year, Budapest to New Year's Day, and Prague and Zagreb into January.
- For the classic picture-book version. Nuremberg, Colmar and Strasbourg.
- For several markets in one trip. Vienna, Cologne or a base in Alsace.
Practical tips for UK visitors
- Go early in the season or midweek. The difference between a Tuesday afternoon in late November and a Saturday evening in mid-December is enormous, at every market on this list.
- Book accommodation early. Hotels in Nuremberg, Colmar and Strasbourg fill up months in advance for December weekends. Staying in a nearby town and taking the train in is a common workaround.
- Expect a cup deposit. Most German, Austrian and Alsatian markets serve mulled wine in a ceramic mug and add a refundable deposit to the price. Return the mug to get the money back, or keep it as a souvenir.
- Carry some cash. Cards are widely accepted at the bigger markets, but smaller stalls and village markets can still be cash only. Check whether your bank charges for foreign card payments.
- Know the currency. Most of these markets use the euro, but Budapest uses the forint, Prague the koruna, Copenhagen the krone and Basel the Swiss franc.
- Allow time at the border. Entering the Schengen area involves the EU's biometric Entry/Exit System, so build in extra time at airports and Eurostar terminals.
- Dress for standing still. You will spend hours outdoors without moving much, which feels much colder than walking. Thermal layers and warm boots matter more than a heavy coat.
- Take your GHIC and travel insurance. Icy cobbles and crowds are a common combination.
Frequently asked questions
When do European Christmas markets open?
Most traditional markets open in the last week of November, just before the first Sunday of Advent. Some big city markets open earlier: Vienna and Budapest in mid-November, and Cologne shortly after.
Which is the best Christmas market in Europe?
Nuremberg is the most famous and the most traditional. Colmar and Strasbourg are often considered the prettiest, Vienna offers the most variety from one base, and Zagreb is the best value.
Which European Christmas markets are open after Christmas?
Vienna stays open until 26 December, Colmar until just before New Year, Budapest's Basilica market until New Year's Day, and Prague and Zagreb until early January. Most German markets close on 23 or 24 December.
Can you get to a European Christmas market by train from the UK?
Yes. Brussels and Lille are direct on the Eurostar, and Cologne is reachable in a day with one change in Brussels.
Are European Christmas markets free to enter?
Almost all are free. The notable exception on this list is Copenhagen's Tivoli Gardens, which charges an entry fee.
What is the cheapest European Christmas market to visit?
Zagreb and Budapest, followed closely by Prague. Food, drink and accommodation are all considerably cheaper than in Germany, Austria, France or Switzerland.
